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On August 11, 1923, the State of Montana formed Lake County by taking the southern part of Flathead County (number 7) and the northern portion of Missoula County (number 4). Named for its primary topographical feature, Flathead Lake, it was the next to last county created in Montana. Only Petroleum County (number 55) is younger. The county covers some 1,654 square miles, of which 160 square miles are water (mostly Flathead Lake). The Flathead Indian Reservation, otherwise known as the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes of the Flathead Nation, makes up over two-thirds of the land area of the county. The Reservation plays such an important role in the county, that it is virtually impossible to talk about one without the other.
Lewis and Clark met the Salish in the Bitterroot Valley (Ravalli County, number 13) as they traveled across western Montana. They named the tribe "Flathead," based on a misunderstanding. Certain tribes practiced head flattening, but the Salish found that custom barbaric, according to some accounts. Lewis and Clark never actually set foot on land that would become Lake County. Historically, neither the Salish nor the Pend d'Oreille (Kalispel) indians lived in Lake County either. One band of Kootenai (the Ksanka) did live on the shores of Flathead Lake, and the US government forcibly moved the other tribes off their ancestral homelands and onto the reservation.
The Lake County Court House
Taken 12/11/2009 in Polson, Montana
In 1845, Frank McArthur of the Hudson Bay Company established Fort Connah as a fur-trading post. This was the first European settlement in what is now Lake County. In 1854, the Jesuits arrived and built St. Ignatius Mission. The Hellgate Treaty of 1855 established the Flathead Reservation, and Fort Connah closed in 1871. The first bison were introduced into the area in the 1870s, and the US established the National Bison Range in 1908.
The Mission Mountains
Taken 6/3/2010 in Ronan, Montana
Aside from Flathead Lake, the most conspicuous topographical feature in Lake County is the Mission Mountain Range, extending from south to north on the eastern side of the Mission Valley which forms the central part of the county. The western side of the range includes a Tribal Wilderness area, and you will need to obtain a tribal recreation permit to hike the numerous trails in the area. The Mission Mountain Wilderness covers much of the eastern slope of the range.
The US government opened the Flathead Reservation to white settlement in 1910, and the Lake County population has increased steadily since its creation in 1923. The 1930 U.S. Census counted 9,541 people living within the county. The 2010 Census showed a population of 28,746, an increase of 8.4% over the 2000 Census count. This makes Lake County the ninth largest in Montana by population. Broken down by racial lines, "white persons" constituted 69.4% of the total, while "American Indian and Alaska Native persons" made up 22%. 7.3% report belonging to two or more races. The largest growth spurts occurred during the 1970s and the 1990s when the county grew 31.9% and 26.0% respectively. Of the twenty cities, towns and "census designated places" in Lake County, whites outnumber native people in all but a handful of communities.
US Highway 93 bisects the county, running south to north from Missoula to Kalispell. It is one of, if not the most heavily traveled highways in Montana. Should you choose to drive this route, and you really should, here are my suggestions for places to visit along the way. 93 enters Lake County just south of the town of Arlee. Just after passing the Lake County sign, a road takes off to the right connecting with the Jocko Pass road across the Mission Mountains. If you're awfully brave, and have a heavy duty vehicle, you may want to take this side trip as the road is the only road that actually crosses the mountains, having an eastern terminus at Seeley Lake. Note that this drive is not for the faint-of-heart. Continuing on 93, stop at Huckleberry's in Arlee if you like licorice. They sell some fifty or more varieties of the candy from all over the world. North of Arlee, you will cross the Jocko River and shortly thereafter you can take a right turn on White Coyote Road to visit the Garden of 1000 Buddhas. Back on 93, you drive through the Jocko River Canyon, reaching the community of Ravalli a few miles further north. In Ravalli, you have the choice of turning west on Montana Highway 200 which will quickly take you into Sanders County (number 35), or staying on 93 and climbing the steep hill that separates Ravalli from St. Ignatius. Either way, you will be skirting the National Bison Range which you really should visit. So why not stop at the Bison Inn in Ravalli and refresh yourself with one of the best Indian Tacos available in Montana while you decide. If you're not that hungry, have a huckleberry shake. You'll love it. Should you stay on 93, as you reach the crest of the hill, note how the Missions just start appearing in an ever increasing number of peaks. Most of the year, they will be covered in snow and you'll understand why the native people called Montana "the land of shining mountains." In St. Ignatius, visit Doug Allard's Trading Post on the west side of the highway and St. Ignatius Mission on the east side. The former has an attached museum, and the trading post itself has a wealth of native-crafted items from all over the US. The church, built in 1891, is filled with art that will astound you, regardless of your religious beliefs.
Between St. Ignatius and Ronan, you'll pass through the Ninepipe Wildlife Refuge, a good place to count birds, turtles, and other wildlife. Stop at Cowboy Cappuccino in Ronan, a fun place to restore your caffeine levels, and in Pablo visit the Tribal Headquarters, Salish-Kootenai College, and the People's Center, Sqelixw Aqlsmaknik, to get a deeper understanding of the native life of this area.
Finally, as you crest the hill just south of Polson, Flathead Lake will come into view. The largest freshwater lake west of the Great Lakes, and the largest alpine lake in the US, Flathead Lake stretches 27.3 miles from south to north, and is up to 15.5 miles wide. It is a favorite recreation site for all of western Montana. At Polson, you'll have to decide whether to take the west shore or the east (93 follows the west), but rest assured that on either side, the lake will offer you an endless number of breathtaking views.
Flathead Lake from the west side
Taken 6/19/2010 north of Dayton, Montana
Photo Information:
Unless otherwise noted, all photos were taken using a Nikon D80 DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex camera) and a Nikkor 16-85 mm wide angle/tele/zoom lens. All photos are finished using Photoshop CS4.
Lake County Sign: Taken 5/22/2010. Focal length was 85 mm, ISO 250, f /9.5, 1/250 second.
Lake County Courthouse: Taken 12/11/2009 in Polson, Montana. Focal length was 40 mm, ISO 250, f /8.0, 1/750 second.
The Mission Mountains: Taken 6/3/2010 in Ronan, Montana. Focal length was 85 mm, ISO 125, f /8.0, 1/750 second.
Northeastern Lake County: Taken 5/22/2010 near Swan Lake, Montana. Focal length was 19 mm. ISO 250, f /16.0, 1/250 second.
Saturday Morning on the Lake: Taken 6/19/2010 near Dayton, Montana. Focal length was 24 mm, ISO 125, f /5.6, 1/350 second.
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