23. Musselshell County

(Taken during one of the spring snowstorms that led to the floods of 2011)

On February 11, 1911, the state of Montana took land from Fergus (8) and Yellowstone (3) counties to create a new county named for the longest river that flows entirely within the state of Montana, the Musselshell. (Counting the streams that come together to form the river, the Musselshell spans almost 500 miles and drains over 108,000 acres.) Rising in the Castle, the Crazy and the Little Belt mountains (one fork from each) just east of the Continental Divide, the Musselshell flows in a generally easterly direction across the middle of Montana till it makes a ninety degree turn to the north to debouch into the Missouri. For approximately fifty miles prior to that dramatic turn north, the river meanders on the south side of US Highway 12 across the breadth of Musselshell County.

The Musselshell County Courthouse

At the time of the county's creation, Roundup was named seat, a distinction it retains to this day. There are many stories about how Roundup got its name, but all agree that the location served as a convenient place for the cattle ranchers to round up their herds in the spring and fall. Some claim that the area was the northern terminus of a cattle drive running from Texas to Montana, and some claim that the round up was strictly local. In any event, the people of Roundup worked for two years to present the Great Montana Cattle Drive for the state's centennial celebration in 1989. The latter day cattle drive was such a success that it continues in legend today. Beginning on September 4th, 1989, over 3600 horses and riders drove some 3000 head of cattle from Roundup to Billings, fifty miles to the south. Some three hundred wagons accompanied the drive, which took five days and had to be a logistical nightmare. Tanker trucks carried 200,000 gallons of water along the route and 140 tons of hay were carried to feed the stock. Not the way things were done in the old days.

The Musselshell River at Roundup

The Montana Department of Transportation has mounted a sign on the south side of Roundup explaining how things went way back when:

Cow Country

In the 1880s, days of the open range, many a roundup outfit worked this country. The spring roundup gathered the cattle in order to brand and tally the calf crop. The fall roundup gathered beef critters for shipping.

An outfit consisted of the captain, the riders, the “reps” from neighboring ranges, the cavvy or horse herd in charge of the day herder and night hawk, the four horse chuck wagon piloted by the cook and the bed wagon driven by his flunky. Camp moved each day.

The cowboys rode circle in the morning, combing the breaks and coulees for cattle and heading them toward the central point to form a herd. In the afternoons of spring roundup the guards kept the herd together, the cutters split out the cows with calves, the ropers dabbed their loops on the calves, took a couple of dally welts around the saddle horn and dragged ‘em to the fire. There the calf wrestlers flanked and flopped them and the brander decorated them with ear notches, or dew laps, and a hot iron. It wasn’t all sunshine and roses.

Today Roundup is a pretty town of 1,788 residents, with broad, clean streets, and a park/rodeo ground along the river where I camped on my trip east in 2007. In the Spring of 2011, however, Roundup had quite a different face. Heavy winter snowfall and warm spring weather conspired to raise the water level to such a point that both US Highway 12, the main east-west route through the area and US Highway 87, the main north-south route were under water and Roundup was cut off from the rest of the state. The flood waters first rose on May 26 and didn't fully recede until June 23rd. The story made national news, including an article in the Huffington Post.

Typical Musselshell County Landscape

Musselshell County has, like the rest of Montana, primarily an agriculture based economy, accounting for over 25% of the county's industry.  Coal mining also played an important role in the county's history, and the local Chamber of Commerce attributes the population increase since 1990 to the resurgence of interest in mining local coal.  According to the 2010 US Census, Musselshell County has 4,538 residents, up from 4,497 in 2000, and up from 4,106 in 1990.  While a ten percent increase over twenty years is nothing earth shaking, it is unusual in an eastern Montana county too far removed from any urban center for the bedroom community effect to have any play in the figures.  In fact, from 1920, when Musselshell County first appeared in the US Census counts till 1970, each successive census showed a decrease in population, the most significant being the drop between 1920 and 1930.  At least part of this drop has to be attributed to the creation of Golden Valley County (53) in 1920.  Both of the incorporated towns in Golden Valley County were part of Musselshell County prior to that time.  But lest we forget that this was part of the Wild West, there is a sign on Main Street in Roundup that recounts the story of five people (including two innocent passers by) who were hanged in town for cattle rustling.  The sign notes than none of the vigilantes involved in stringing up the rustlers was ever prosecuted.

Today's visitors to Roundup should check out the rodeo grounds, the Busy Bee Cafe, The Bloomin' Shack, Allison Saddlery,  and the Musselshell Valley Historical Museum.  Also, be sure and check out Phillip Fowler's Accent Photo Facebook page for some wonderful photographic images.  South of Roundup, on the way toward Billings, you'll pass through Klein, what's left of one of the major coal mining ventures that brought a small measure of prosperity to Musselshell County.  Somewhere I have a picture of my friend Gary Klein standing in front of the sign announcing that we were entering "Klein."

Tree in eastern Musselshell County

Photo Information

Musselshell County Sign: Taken 4/22/2011 on the Musselshell/Golden Valley County Line alongside US Highway 12. Focal length 85 mm. ISO 200, f /16.0, 1/90 second.

Musselshell County Courthouse: Taken 9/9/2007 in Roundup, Montana. Sigma 18-50 mm lens set at focal length 20 mm. ISO 125, f /6.7, 1/180 second.

Musselshell River: Taken 9/9/2007 near Roundup, Montana. Sigma 18-50 mm lens set at focal length 34 mm. ISO 125, f /6.7, 1/180 second.

Landscape with Butte: Taken 9/9/2007 along US Highway 12. Sigma 18-50 mm lens set at focal length 34 mm. ISO 125, f /6.7, 1/350 second.

Tree: Taken 9/9/2007 near Roundup, Montana. Sigma 18-50 mm lens set at focal length 40 mm. ISO 125, f /6.7, 1/250 second.